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Fastest,Cheapest, Easiest Way to Add Power to Your Motorcycle
In adding power to your motorcycle, riders mainly start with things like exhaust, tune, air filter, reducing weight and a number of other things. But these will only add a very small bump in power. The next step will be either Nitrous, Supercharger or Turbo. This article update will attempt to address more info to the Nitrous Oxide story we did recently in our magazine.
Fastest,Cheapest, Easiest Way to Add Power to Your Motorcycle
Adding power to your ride begins with the basics of care, exhaust, tune and all around good maintenance. And from here the fun begins with choosing the big three, either Nitrous, Supercharger or Turbo.
The choice will partially be tailored to what is available because not all bikes will fit a Supercharger or Turbo, but Nitrous fits almost anything with an engine.
While Turbochargers and Superchargers have higher upfront costs, Nitrous has a lower cost, but the caveat is you have to purchase and continue to refill nitrous bottles. Having said that, it is not that big an inconvenience when Supercharger and Turbo kits are just not available for most motorcycles and you are looking for more power.
All three performance systems have various stage deliveries of power and its based on common sense. The more power you ad, the tighter tuned your engine has to be with stronger, tougher rods, bearings, clutches, fuel pumps etc.
Also the higher stages will require more care needed to take in terms of power delivery, like completely blueprinted engines, transmissions, clutches, injectors, pistons, rods, valve and head work etc. Controllers and AFR (air fuel ratio) regulators will be needed as you increase boost. Which is why the majority of riders stay closer to a Stage 1 system so they can just add to their bone stock motorcycle. A Stage 1 system provides anything from 20hp upto 75hp. More horsepower is available in Stage 2 and 3 up to 700hp but the engine has to be able to take it, so a fully rebuilt engine will be required for stage 3 and one could get away with a partially rebuilt engine for Stage 2.
Nitrous comes with two major ways of delivering power. One, the simplest and cheapest is to simply add a basic system (without controller and afr concerns), purge, push and hold the nitrous release trigger button for power. This low cost way to go is used by some riders that want a cheap price and just a small bump in horsepower. The disadvantage with this, is that you have almost zero control of what is going on and you also risk damaging your engine.
The preferred way to add nitrous is to use some of the specialty add-ons that will provide far better and more uniform nitrous delivery and keep you in tune with whats going on with your system. Installing with all the resources of a premium nitrous system will make you feel safer and ensure that your engine is taken care of. These would include controller, controller screen, AFR gauge and sensor, bottle gauge and bottle warmer to start with.
Myths of Nitrous Oxide. There are so many people that we talk to that think nitrous is dangerous, or it will be really hard on your engine or that its complex and difficult filling bottles. The bottom line is none of this is true for the most part. We can't say its not dangerous, but riding a motorcycle and sitting behind a tank full of flammable gas is actually more dangerous than a nitrous system. Nitrous is not a fuel like gasoline, its simply an oxygenated gas.
For motorcycles, filling bottles is easy and if you are looking at Youtube videos on how to fill a bottle, its much easier than most videos show and much safer. Again, its likely more dangerous pumping gasoline into your motorcycle over that hot engine than filling a nitrous bottle.
What you will need is a 10lb bottle full that you purchase and use this as your mother bottle that you will fill at a refill centre. You would then have one or two 2.5lb bottles to use on your motorcycle and you would need a transfer tube and a weigh scale. The procedure is take the filled 10lb bottle and set beside the weigh scale, add the transfer cable to mother bottle and then to the 2.5 bottle (that has been chilled in your feezer) and ensure all connections are tight. Know the weight of the empty 2.5lb bottle and the full weight of the 2.5 bottle full of nitrous. Put on gloves and eye wear and open the 2.5lb valve slowly, then open the mother bottle and you will hear the gas move from the mother to the 2.5lb bottle. Make sure the scale is set to zero, then put the bottle on the scale and you will know if there is any gas in the receiving bottle by the weight. Fill the receiving bottle until it reaches the maximum weight for a filled bottle (do not overfill) and immediately shut the mother bottle off and then receiving bottle off. Most likely in the transfer fill unlike the pump fill you will likely fall just short of your targeted weight fill, even with a frozen bottle. Double check that BOTH valves are closed. Now you can take the hoses off and this is really the only point you have to be very careful. Very cautiously take a wrench and slowly unscrew the nozzle to the receiving bottle just the slightest so you will see a small amount of gas release from the hose. Then let it sit an allow the pressure and gas to release. Open a tad bit more and make sure there is not more gas that needs to be released. Then disconnect the receiving bottle. Always go very slow to avoid large sprays of gas that could touch your skin or spray into your face. Remember this freezing cold gas and could burn and or remove skin. It sounds dangerous to do this but if you take care and open valves very slowly you will not have a problem. Its common sense like you wouldn't smoke or light a match when putting gas into your car. If you are purchasing the transfer cable from HardRider Motorcycle eStore we will have it taped and ready to go so there are no leaks.
A 24jet will provide about 20hp, a 35jet will provide 50hp, a 50jet will provide 100hp, a 65jet will provide 150hp and an 80 jet will provide 200hp from a single jet spray nozzle.
A pressure gauge for the bottle is mandatory because you have to know where your pressure is, otherwise the nitrous system will not work properly. With the bottle heater armed and on you will see the gauge move up to the yellow and finally into the green zone approximately 1000psi. This is where it needs to be. When its not there, it either means that your nitrous is low or is too cold to give the correct spray and nitrous delivery needed to be purposeful.
HardRider Motorcycle eStore can sell, ship worldwide and provide video and telephone assistance for installation. Or if you are in the Southern Ontario we can install for you for a reasonable fee. This depends on kit, components that may or may not require programming and motorcycle it is going on. Please go to our site eStore page and fill the form providing info about your motorcycle and what you are looking for.